Ancient ruins, city tours and cannoli on a family tour of western Sicily

Italians may flock to Sicily’s soft sands in summer, but this far-flung Mediterranean island is far more than just a beach destination. Families can scale Mount Etna in giant off-road jeep buses, feast on classic Sicilian sweets and delve into archaeology at well-preserved ruin complexes like the Valley of the Temples. Older kids, meanwhile, can satisfy any gangster fascination by exploring mafia heritage in Palermo and seeking out The Godfather filming sites in the quiet mountain villages. And with the island lying closer to Africa than Rome, its southerly climate makes it a great choice for off-season travels around Easter and October.

Palermo by night

To beat the heat of the Sicilian capital in summer, try venturing into town after dusk for a guided night tour, when Palermo’s landmarks are magically illuminated. The walk can take in city highlights such as the medieval Kalsa district, the Arabesque domes of San Giovanni degli Eremiti, the Norman cathedral of Monreale and UNESCO-listed Zisa palace.

Gangster’s paradise

Unpick the island’s deep-rooted connection with the Sicilian Mafia, known locally as Cosa Nostra, at Palermo’s No Mafia Memorial museum. It explains the origins of the crime cartel and the government’s efforts to quash the organisation after the Second World War. If you’ve got more time, there are also Mafia-related tours taking in the eastern villages of Savoca and Forza d’Agro, which were key filming locations for The Godfather — a good bet if you’ve got any movie-mad teens in tow. 

Street-food specialities

Sicily’s original thick-crusted pizza is a must try. There’s a topping for every palate so picky eaters are bound to find something they like; the more adventurous should go for the classic, which includes anchovies, herbs and strong cheese on a passata base. For dessert it’s cannoli, deep-fried pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta, that take centre stage. Arancini — fried risotto balls — are another favourite for a cheap meal on the go. A Palermo street-food tour is a fun way to explore for those whose kids love to try new dishes. 

Sicily’s sweet-making centre

With its sloping cobbled streets and crowning castle, Erice — around 70 miles west of Palermo — has a fairytale quality. But in Sicily this town is best known for its almond pastries — especially those made by local pastry chef Maria Grammatico, whose stories have been immortalised in the biography Bitter Almonds, by Mary Taylor Simeti. Follow the sweet scent of powdered sugar down winding lanes to find her old-fashioned bakery and encourage the kids to order belli e brutti — ‘beautiful and ugly’ — a buttery bite-size pastry laced with almonds and lemon.

Archaeology discoveries

Sicily has more than its fair share of ruins and many of the best are in the west of the island. Closest to Palermo is the fifth-century Segesta Archaeological Park, around 47 miles west of the capital, which offers panoramic views from a Hellenic theatre atop Monte Barbaro. But Sicily’s finest ruins can be found at the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento on the southwest coast — a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of the world’s best-preserved Greek temples.  

Volcano tours to Mt Etna

 The east of the island is famed for its succession of exquisite baroque towns in the south and the cone of Mount Etna on the east coast. Towering 3,329 metres high, Europe’s tallest volcano is also one of Sicily’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites — and a family favourite because of how close kids can usually get to the fuming calderas. The trip starts with a cable-car ride up to 2,500 metres, from where 4x4 jeep buses carry travellers higher on guided tours of the lunar-like landscape and smoking volcano craters. Tours are available from Catania, Taormina or Messina, but keep an eye on the local news — Etna last spewed lava as recently as November 2023. 

Where to stay

Villa Igiea
Restored at the end of the 19th century by famous Italian architect Ernesto Basile and revamped by Rocce Forte Hotels in 2021, the 124-room art nouveau-style Villa Igiea in Palermo is rich in character. It still retains its frescoes, original furniture and decor with a modern twist, all of which are guaranteed to make kids feel like they’ve stepped into a fairytale. Rooms are individually decorated with lovely hardwood floors and luxury marble bathrooms, and it’s located near the port, overlooking an ancient Greek temple.

Verdura Resort
Set on more than 500 acres of southwestern Sicilian coastline, the 205-room Verdura Resort offers uninterrupted views of the sea from private balconies or terraces, designed in a fresh and contemporary Sicilian style. The hotel is packed with facilities to make life easy for families, including a 60-metre infinity pool, a handful of clay tennis courts and four restaurants – plus five bars and a massive spa for the adults.