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The Paris men’s fashion week and couture schedules are out, and it seems Olympics-related logistical hassles have not put designers off showing in the city.
The men’s week calendar might be smaller, but it still features a total of 72 shows and presentations (compared with last year’s 81). Among the absentees are Givenchy, which is looking for its next creative director following the departure of Matthew Williams; Valentino, whose new creative director Alessandro Michele will present his debut collection in September; Paul Smith, who is returning to Pitti Uomo this season; and the Berlin label Gmbh.
A newcomer to the official show calendar is 032c by Berlin-based creative director Maria Koch (032c made its runway debut in January, though not on the official calendar). Meanwhile, Officine Générale, Botter and Études are staging presentations instead of shows.
All eyes will be on the final show of Dries Van Noten before he passes on the creative mantle of his eponymous brand, and the Louis Vuitton show by Pharrell Williams, following his blockbuster debut on the Pont Neuf last June as well as a January show that paid tribute to American Western-wear. Other shows to watch include Loewe, Dior Men’s, Rick Owens, Bianca Saunders (who will return to the Paris calendar) and Wales Bonner.
The third edition of Vogue World will be held at the Place Vendôme — Paris’s historic jewellery square and home of the Ritz Paris — on 23 June at 9pm. The event, which celebrates the intersection of fashion and sports, will involve a number of talents, such as Carine Roitfeld, Ib Kamara, Palais Galliera curator Alexandre Samson, makeup artist Pat McGrath and Parris Goebel, the dancer and choreographer behind Rihanna’s Super Bowl halftime show.
Alaïa, which usually shows towards the end of men’s week (running from 18 to 23 June this season), is to be confirmed. Contacted by Vogue Business, the maison said that “the timing of the show is not set yet”.
As previously announced, Autumn 2024 couture week will run from 24 to 27 June — a week earlier than usual — to accommodate the Olympics. This season’s calendar has 30 houses (compared to 31 last July) and marks the return of Thom Browne. The American designer showed in Paris last summer for the first time, kicking off the brand’s 20th-anniversary celebrations.
Charles de Vilmorin also returns, while Ronald van der Kemp and Julien Fournier are skipping this couture season. Highlights will include Schiaparelli, Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Giorgio Armani Privé, Jean Paul Gaultier designed by Courrèges creative director Nicolas Di Felice, and Fendi. Patou, albeit not a couture brand, will close the curtain on 27 June.
Fashion week will be held just as Paris makes its final preparations for the Olympic Games, kicking off on 26 July. Building work is already making it increasingly difficult to access some venues (the city has turned into a big construction site), as have security concerns. Announcing the schedules today, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) said it has worked on “a harmonisation of the trajectories” between shows to reduce traffic issues for fashion week goers, alongside running additional shuttle services (six instead of two for a normal season).
“Anticipation is key,” Pascal Morand, executive president of FHCM told Vogue Business in March. “Each time we have had challenges to deal with, we have improved.”
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