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The last decade or so was a boom time for skin care, but the backlash has arrived. Specifically, dermatologists and other experts are waking up to the fact that overuse of face products can wreck our so-called skin barrier. That’s important to know if you’re currently doing a 10-product daily routine. It’s also useful intel if you’re not doing much more than splashing some water in the morning—not to lean on any unfair stereotypes of the personal-care habits of the average man. If you want to look more youthful, better rested, and blemish-free, you need to find your own skin care sweet spot.
“People often make the mistake that their skin needs more, but less is more when it comes to your skin barrier,” says board-certified dermatologist Heather Rogers, founder of Doctor Rogers Skincare. “Your skin knows how to do it—don’t get in the way.”
That doesn’t mean stopping your skin care routine—quite the opposite, in fact! With an understanding of your skin barrier, you can build a smart, practical regimen that will keep your face firmer, clearer, and younger looking.
The Skin Barrier, Explained
Your skin is a shield for your entire body against the outside world, and the barrier is the very top layer. It’s composed of things like ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, skin cells (some dead, some alive), and even microorganisms (good ones—that’s your skin microbiome).
A too-aggressive routine wipes away that beneficial layer, but neglecting your skin care entirely allows it to get polluted with things you don’t want: dirt, grime, the bad microorganisms that cause blemishes and zits. It’s all a delicate balance, so here are three ways you can keep up your skin care routine without overdoing it.
1. Wash twice a day (at most)
Overwashing your face is a quick way to disrupt the balance of your skin, but cleansing still needs to be the first step in any skin care regimen. The most important move is to limit your face washing to gentle cleansers. (This is to say: absolutely not an all-in-one shower product.)
We usually preach cleansing morning and night, but if your skin is currently feeling irritated, Rogers says that, to avoid the risk of further wear, a splash with lukewarm water can suffice in the morning.
2. Exfoliate smarter
Dr. Rogers urges her patients to ditch any manual exfoliation, like gritty scrubs, and instead to find a gentle chemical exfoliant that works for them. The approach you take to exfoliation will be influenced by your skin type—oily and acne-prone individuals might like the pore-clearing powers of salicylic acid, for example, while sensitive types might prefer polyhydroxy acids. Each product has different rules regarding frequency, so follow a brand’s instructions, and tailor it as best as possible to your own skin goals and needs. (When in doubt, a dermatologist can always help coach an over-the-counter plan.)
3. Prioritize repair
Whether you’re trying to heal your barrier or simply maintain order, use moisturizers with nourishing and calming ingredients like squalane and vitamin E. And if things are currently irritated, dial back on any aggressive active ingredients or processes, and stick to the basics: “Apply a thick hypoallergenic face cream,” Rogers says, “and if you are really irritated, seal it in for the night with an ointment on top.”