Memorable Chianti Classico From Castellina In Chianti

In a recent article, I profiled a few wine estates from the commune of Gaiole in Chianti in the Chianti Classico zone; today I am dealing with wine estates in the commune of Castellina in Chianti.

Located in the southwestern sector of Chianti Classico in the province of Siena, Castellina in Chianti is home to 33 wine estates, making it one of the largest communes in the production zone. Given this many producers, there are various styles, ranging from ultra traditional too modern, but is there a Castellina style? “I think that in Castellina, you have a very good balance in between the freshness you can find in Gaiole and Radda (in Chianti, another commune) compared to Panzano and Castelnuovo Berardenga where you have more structure,” says Guido Orzelasi, winemaker at Castello La Leccia, one of the most highly regarded wine estates in Castellina.

Here are brief analyses of some of the best producers in Castellina in Chianti:

Castellare di Castellana - This is one of the best-known estates in Castellina, not only for the wines, but also for their appealing labels that feature local birds. Established in the 1970s, as a union of four estates, today, the estate is planted to 33 hectares (70 acres) of vineyards, and their various examples of Chianti Classico are produced with Sangiovese (or special clones known as Sangioveto) and other local indigenous varietals such as Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo. While barriques are used for aging, they are primarily used barrels; the Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale, sourced from the eponymous vineyard, offers outstanding harmony as well as impressive typicity, and is generally at peak around twelve years of age.

Casale Dello Sparviero - The Chianti Classico at Casale dello Sparviero, first produced in 1997, is a beauty, an elegant offering aged in the traditional large Slavonian oak casks, while the 100% Sangiovese riserva is more modern in style, as it is matured in barriques. The best wine here is the Gran Selezione Paronza, made from the finest Sangiovese grapes of the estate; the wine is matured in a combination of large and small oak barrels. This is one of the more powerful examples of Chianti Classico from Castellina, and offers excellent structure, with the offerings from top vintages such as 2015, 2016 and 2019 having the potential to cellar for at least 12-15 years.

Castello di Fonterutoli - This estate is owned by the Mazzei family, whose Tuscan roots date back more than 600 years. There are 110 hectares (275 acres) of vineyards at this estate, with seven different terroir having been identified. Siepi, one of the oldest vineyards in the entire Chianti Classico appellation, is the source of powerful and complex fruit, while the grapes from the Fonterutoli vineyard tends to result in more elegant and aromatic wines. There is a charming Chianti Classico annata, a rich riserva known as Sea Lapo as well as three different offerings of Gran Selezione. The most unique of these is the Vicoregio 36, crafted from 36 different biotypes of Sangiovese, all from the Vicoregio vineyard. The owners describe this wine as “the qunitessence of research on Sangiovese at Castello di Fonterutoli;” formerly known as Mix 36, the wine was first produced from the 2008 vintage and has proven to be one of the most valuable insights into Sangiovese as well as Castellina terroir.

Querceto di Castellina - Querceto di Castellina is owned by Laura Di Battista, her son Jacopo, who serves as enologist, and his wife Mary Shea. There are only two examples of Chianti Classico produced here, an annata, known as L’Aura, a 100% Sangiovese aged in mid-size oak barrels, and the Gran Selezione Sei, also exclusively Sangiovese. Both wines offer noteworthy Sangiovese purity, and there is excellent focus and harmony, as well as early drinkability, though the Sei regularly drinks well at 10-12 years of age.

Rocca della Macìe - Sergio Zingarelli, one of the most delightful personalities in Chianti Classico, is the proprietor of this beautiful estate, which today is one of the best-known of all Chianti Classico properties. There are several examples of Chianti Classico produced here, including two different offerings of Gran Selezione, with the most celebrated being the Sergio Zingarelli bottling. Originally made with a small percentage of Canaiolo, the wine has been 100% Sangiovese since the 2014 vintage. Medium-full with appealing black cherry, plum and myrtle aromas, the wine typically offers very good acidity, a lengthy finish and excellent complexity and aging potential. The 2010, recently tasted, is an outstanding wine, one that has at least another decade of cellar worthiness.

Castello La Leccia - At this beautiful estate that can trace its origins back to the early 11th century, there are three versions of Chianti Classico: annata, riserva and Gran Selezione. The annata, entirely Sangiovese, aged in large oak barrels for 12 months, is a charming wine that beautifully communicates its origins. The riserva, also 100% Sangiovese, receives 24 months aging in large casks, while the 100% Sangiovese Gran Selezione, sourced from 45-year-old vines, matures in small and large barrels. The style at La Leccia emphasizes freshness along with notable structure; the wines are very good values.

Cecchi - Here is one of the largest and most dependable estates in Castellina. Founded in 1893 by Luigi Cecchi, the winery is still today a family affair, as Andrea Cecchi manages everyday operations. Indeed, family is at the forefront here, with the Chianti Classico wines have the word “famiglia” on the label; with the Chianti Classico annata named Storia di Famiglia, the riserva is identified as Riserva di Famiglia and the Gran Selezione as Valore di Famiglia. Each of these wines combine bright Sangiovese fruit with very good acidity, making them ideal food wines upon release, while the riserva and Gran Selezione have deeper structure and can be stored away for up to a decade or slightly longer.

Bibbiano - Brothers Tommaso and Federico Marrochesi Marzi have done the necessary work to make Bibbiano into one of Chianti Classico’s most renowned estates; for my money, Bibbiano is one of the five best producers of this appellation. Situated on rolling hilltops in Castellina, the estate is planted to 72 acres of vines, primarily Sangiovese as well as traditional local red varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera as well as Trebbiano and Malvasia del Chianti; these last two white varietals are used in the production of one of two versions of Vin Santo produced at Bibbiano. The Chianti Classico wines are routinely excellent, as they display notable harmony, typicity and excellent Sangiovese purity. The Chianti Classico annata is one of my favorites in the entire appellation, as is the riserva. There are two Gran Selezione wines, Vigne de Montornello and Vigna del Capannino, which are produced from estate vineyards that have entirely different exposures. The Vigna del Capannino, 100% Sangiovese Grosso from the eponymous vineyard, is a marvelously complex and beautifully structured wine that has the cellar potential of 15-20 years from top vintages such as 2016 and 2019; it has become one of the signature examples of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.