For generations, Black hair salons have been more than just a place to get your hair done. It’s a sanctuary, a place to destress and connect with other Black women (and men, too) to keep up with the latest things happening in the community. It’s a cultural hub that fosters a sense of community and shared experiences. This is a lifestyle.
However, a trending social media discourse involves the disconnect between Black hairstylists and their clients. There is a shift in the Black salon experience that many see as more of a capitalist move than for the culture.
Black hair salons boast a rich and resilient history. During the oppressive era of segregation, Black women were excluded from white-owned salons. These establishments often lacked the skills and experience to handle Black hair textures. Necessity, as always, became the mother of invention. Black women established salons, fostering safe spaces to celebrate their unique beauty standards and traditions.
From the intricate braiding techniques passed down through generations to the innovative styles born from limited resources, Black hair salons became crucibles of cultural expression and identity.
Today, social media is flooded with stories of client frustration. Unfinished styles, last-minute cancellations, and exorbitant prices paint a picture of an industry in disarray. Many Black women describe their experiences at hair salons as disappointing because of unprofessionalism, late clients and deposit costs. Sometimes, the stylists request clients to come with their hair washed and blow-dried before their appointment.
Shalainna Ogunbiyi, chief executive officer of Social Boss Empire, is a young professional who prides herself on her style and image, especially being an influence on social media and supporting Black-owned businesses. Unfortunately, there have been times she experienced stylists who had long wait times, didn’t have efficient payment methods, or arrived late.
“I’ve been to a stylist before where [they say] I only take cash, and they didn’t put it on the website, and I only take Cash app… It doesn’t give professional [to] me. If you’re going to take cash [then] fine; if you’re not going to take any cash, you should have three to four payment processes for people to use. Why don’t you have universal Zelle, Venmo, or Paypal?”
Videos on social media don’t help ease tensions either. A Black hairdresser created a video on TikTok about why she “charged a six-year-old $750 for a silk press,” explaining the time, labor and intricacies of natural hair to viewers. Although one could assume the video was clickbait or satire, it ruffled many feathers. One critic said she would never pay that much for services, even if the stylist called it luxury.
Black haircare influencers are reshaping the beauty industry and inspiring the next generation to embrace their natural hair. However, those who become famous don’t take the formal route to get licensed but find ways to style hair at lesser prices than traditional salons without being caught by inspectors.
“I don’t knock the hustle. That’s the one thing you don’t want to do in this industry. You can’t knock the hustle,” said Trikeyia East, owner of Denise East Hair Studio. “I started in my house but I was licensed. But before I was licensed, I was still taking clients. There are certain things you don’t want to overstep because we have put in those 1,500 hours.”
What Stylists are saying
East has been a stylist for almost 10 years and runs her business in a salon suite, mini salons run by independent beauty professionals in a shared space. One of the main attractions of the space is the low overhead costs compared to the traditional salon setup. Even though it’s a small space, her team works very hard to provide that warm familial experience many critics say is missing in the industry.
“When I first started out, I was in an all-Black salon, more open concept… I stuck it out for a little while before it became very unbearable business-wise, so I ventured out into the salon suites,” she said. “In a closed concept, you’re in there by yourself… and in this industry, you have to grow every day.”
Consumers also share the blame for canceling appointments last minute, arriving late, or refusing to pay for their service. In this TikTok video, a stylist refused to complete her client’s service because she arrived late for her appointment and refused to pay.
That is why Autumn Ayri, owner of Lady Ayri Natural Hair Care believes that certain rules and regulations must be in place to avoid situations like that. Back in the day, if a client canceled, your name would get crossed out in the books, but these days, Aryi said that she encourages clients to book online and submit a deposit to secure the stylist’s time.
“Back in the day, it was a cash business. [There] were walk-ins. It was quick and fast,” she said. “Now, we can’t do that. We are focused on more of the business and also catering to one client that’s in the chair.”
Ayri is a traditional salon owner and enjoys the open space to engage her clients from all different backgrounds and ages. She often seeks feedback from her clients.
“We ask our clients, ‘Why do you come here’? For us, we want to know your why. Why do you keep coming when you have other salons to go to?” she said. “They like the culture, the vibe, the fact that you have different generations… you’re not alone.”
Social media influencers also play a role in the riff between stylists and clients because of the unrealistic expectations they set and the lack of proper hair school training. The economic pressure, rising inflation, and job layoffs, especially during the COVID-19 pandemic, opened the door for consumers to invest in hairstylists who aren’t knowledgeable in the hair business, lack professionalism, and are probably in it just for the profit.
“Me working in corporate helped me develop soft skills because you’re having to work with people who are high strung, fast pace environment, you have to please everybody. So, that skill was able to transfer into my salon,” said Okwe Okolie, owner of Transformed by O, a natural hair salon. “Whereas I feel some people who may be coming straight from high school or from whatever environment into the suite model may not have been able to encounter enough people to learn how actually to care for a client.”
For the past eight years as a stylist, Okolie said there needs to be a better perception of how we can bridge the gap in understanding what consumers expect all stylists to provide. Depending on the kind of style, certain services require experience.
“Understand what type of salon you’re going to,” she said. “You don’t want somebody not skilled at detangling type 4 hair. Go to people who are skilled in that.”
Building a bridge of understanding
At the heart of the issue lies a communication breakdown. This tension isn’t a dead end. Industry leaders see an opportunity for a course correction. The future of Black hair salons hinges on rebuilding trust and rediscovering the community spirit, but clients have a role to play, too. Understanding the value of a stylist’s time and respecting established policies goes a long way.
Here are a few tips that the stylists provided to help you make informed decisions about where you do your hair:
Chose a stylist that fits your budget and experience you wantDo your research on the salonCome with questions during a consultationInterview the stylistWord-of-mouth: Ask people who you trust about who they trust with their hairOnline reviewsSocial Media/Website presence
