Devon boasts a pub along the 630-mile South West Coast Path that is simply breathtaking, with Hartland Quay offering an experience like no other in the county. The journey down to Hartland Quay is a descent into an almost mystical realm, where the untamed beauty of Devon's coastline reveals itself in full splendour.
Here, cliffs carved by the relentless forces of wind and sea dive dramatically into the ocean below. At their base, the sea roars and crashes, exposing jagged rock formations that stand starkly, reminiscent of gravestones paying homage to the numerous ships and lives lost to this wild stretch of water over the centuries.
This place manages to be both awe-inspiring and fearsome at once.
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Donal Stafford, who runs Wrecker's Retreat, a historic pub perched on the edge of this formidable yet captivating coastline, previously said: "It's a special place, we're very lucky. We try not to take it for granted. People who find us for the first time are just blown away by it.
"Equally, people come back religiously year after year, because it's so special."
The location, nestled on the 630-mile South West Coast Path near the Cornwall border, is a dream for location scouts. Between serving pints and chips, Donal has mingled with film stars such as Lily James, Armie Hammer and Kristin Scott Thomas.
The stunning scenery has featured in numerous films and TV shows, including the 2020 remake of Daphne du Maurier's Rebecca, Top Gear, The Long Call, and the TV adaptation of John le Carre's The Night Manager. It even made an appearance in a Boots' TV advert.
The Wrecker's Retreat is housed in a building dating back to the 1600s. Hartland was once a bustling quay with its own bank and currency. However, a massive storm at the end of the 1800s destroyed the harbour. In the 1900s, the former merchant's quarters were revived as a pub.
Donal and his wife Sarah not only the pub but also the attached Hartland Quay hotel, a gift shop, and a small museum showcasing shipwreck memorabilia and the history of Hartland Quay as a trading port.
The Wrecker's Retreat, a pub in Devon, offers a traditional, rustic welcome with honest pub grub - served with arguably the best views in Devon. The interior is adorned with giant fish sculptures, and a mural above the bar depicts a ship sailing perilously close to the rocks.
A map on display charts a catalogue of ships that have been dashed on them over the centuries.
This isn't just a pub, but part of the fabric of the surroundings. "I talk to the pub sometimes," Donal said.
"When I'm here on my own at night and I lock the place up, I'll say 'see you tomorrow, girl.' It's been here for so long, you just feel there's something in the bones of the place."
There are rumours of a ghost too - a presence who is said to walk the corridors, although Donal admits he's never encountered anything more than a creaking door.
Given the pub's history and its connection to the landscape, Donal has no desire to turn it into any kind of hipster gastropub, or Michelin-starred eatery. "We've always tried to maintain the ethos of what it is," he said.
"It is a little bit rustic, a little bit rough and ready at times, but people love that about it, so we try and get the balance right between a modern hospitality offering while keeping that link to the past and the character of Hartland Quay."
It's a delicate act to satisfy both the local patrons and the tourists. In the winter, the pub relies on its local clientele and their love for Sunday roasts, with Donal noting, "you're not going to make a fortune in the winter, you have to look at it as a 12 month business. We can still rely on local support and we're very grateful for that. We've a brilliant team who are friendly and welcoming and we try and keep it simple, look after our staff, look after our customers."
The Wrecker's Retreat has opted for 'a high quality, basic pub menu', because when by the sea, chips are king. Donal said: "People love chips.
"You can dress things up and make them triple-cooked, whatever, but it's doing it simple, doing it right, and trying to keep our prices really competitive. We don't want to fleece visitors, nor do we want to turn away our locals."
Donal describes how the Wrecker's Retreat has found the sweet spot in appealing to both regulars and holidaymakers. "In the summer time, the locals pile down here; swimming, having ice creams from the shop, eating cheesy chips and drinking pints and cola, it's just a real part of the community," he explains.
However, he is well aware of the importance of tourists, who in July and August makeup to 90 per cent of trade, with the pub serving up to 500 meals daily. It's no surprise then that there's no time for triple cooking chips.
Donal, while acknowledging the challenging times for the hospitality industry, is however still optimistic. He said: "It's a mixed bag out there at the moment. There's a little bit of suck it and see."
Notwithstanding, the Wrecker's Retreat seems to have weathered even greater challenges than the current Covid and Cost of Living crisis. This place has an enduring charm about it; owning a distinctive personality that sets it apart.
But above all, the eerily gorgeous location that continually attracts visitors. As for the chips, they're significantly exceptional too, especially when paired with a pint in the great outdoors. Michelin stars? Who needs them?
