DESERT DREAM
The alternative Dubai winter sun destination with new British Airways flights and affordable holiday packages
Visit the Louvre without the queues
IT’S not often that I will turn to rom-coms for travel advice.
Yet as I drive through Abu Dhabi’s Saadiyat Island, where 15 years ago desert and shrubs stood, and now shining soon-to-be skyscrapers, I find myself agreeing with Sex And The City’s Samantha: Abu Dhabi is the new Middle East.
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The pace of change here means you can expect something new each year — super-luxe hotels and restaurants and high-tech entertainment attractions that make those in Europe look old hat.
Abu Dhabi — Dubai’s rich big sis — is the capital of the UAE and no amount of money has been spared on making sure we all know it.
Yet a holiday here isn’t just for the wealthy. Far from it.
Now that British Airways has relaunched direct flights from Heathrow after a four-year hiatus, bringing some well-priced competition to a market dominated by UAE airline Etihad, holidaymakers have greater choice when it comes to both cost and flight times.
In fact, holiday packages start from around £500pp in June with BA Holidays — and even at this price you will be treated like a king, with high-end service.
A camel ride topped my bucket list thanks to the exploits of my Abu Dhabi guru Samantha — played by Kim Cattrall — in Sex And The City 2. (Disclaimer: Most of the film was shot in Morocco).
Before reaching the camels, though, my Desert Rose group- safari tour began with a much less traditional sport — dune-bashing.
More thrilling than most roller coasters I have been on, the tyres of our 4X4 were deflated a little to give it more bounce as we thundered over mighty sand dunes with almighty force.
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Speeding over their soft peaks, we crashed down the other side at such a steep angle that the roof and windows became submerged in sand and our group gripped on to headrests, handles and just about anything stable.
It was nail-biting stuff and, truth be told, I was rather grateful for the more mellow pace of our Bedouin camp when we reached it 20 or so minutes later.
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At the foot of another huge dune, the desert refuge was a sight to behold — glowing in the amber light of a slowly sinking sun.
Here you can sample many age-old desert traditions, ranging from camel rides and henna painting to sand surfing and shisha smoking.
All of this is included in the price of a tour package — another great way to keep costs down.
You must scramble to the top of the dune before you surf it.
But I didn’t mind this so much when the reward was one of the most impressive sunsets I have ever seen, turning the epic sandscape red before it gradually became engulfed in darkness.
At the centre of our camp was a stage bordered by traditional rugs and low tables with cushions for seats.
Dinner was included too — a buffet of traditional, spice-laden curry dishes, creamy hummus and crispy falafels alongside some Western dishes such as tomato pasta, chips and green salads to keep younger tummies happy.
It seems the concept of dinner and a show is fully embraced in Abu Dhabi — and although the belly dancer and fire-eater who wiggled across the stage were not traditional to this part of the world, they are still entertaining.
But do bring a jacket, as the desert can get chilly once the sun sets, even in balmier seasons. I was grateful for the respite, though, after spending most of the day in 35C spring heat.
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And I certainly welcomed the powerful air-conditioning that hit me as I strolled into the entrance of Warner Bros World on Yas Island the next day.
This was possibly the most pleasant theme park I have ever visited — and not just because the full- blown rollercoasters and thrill rides are crammed into one super air-con palace.
We queued no longer than five minutes for each ride and workers assured us that even at weekends it remains relatively quiet here.
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Batman: Knight Flight was a big hit, propelling me into the city of Gotham in an alternate reality — as I was tasked with defeating The Joker, while TV screens with animated videos juddered in time with my seat.
After chowing down on burgers with Bugs Bunny, I got my culture fix on Saadiyat Island — home to the Louvre gallery, which has an agreement to share the name of the museum in Paris and borrow many of its artworks.
It is a real gem, allowing you to admire the works of masters such as Renoir, Picasso and Monet without lengthy queues.
This is also the place to head for five-star seafront luxury where restaurants offering any cuisine you can imagine spill out on to sun-drenched beaches, and luxury hotels abound.
On the mainland, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the prettiest place of worship I have ever seen, while the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental hotel is a landmark in its own right.
The resort is so vast that you will need a golf buggy to make your way around the immaculately kept gardens and golden fountains.
The sheer opulence, impeccable hotel service and not-too-shabby price tag made me question why I had never looked to Abu Dhabi as a holiday destination before.
All this plus the fact that the three-hour time difference for visitors from the UK means there is no jet lag.
Perhaps it had always been overshadowed by the glitz and glam of Dubai or maybe it was the lack of culture — I now know that is not true, after my visit to Saadiyat which in 2025 will also be home to a Natural History Museum and the Zayed National Museum.
I arrived back at the five-star Jumeirah on Saadiyat Island in time to catch the last hour of afternoon sun.
By this point it was streaming on to my balcony and through the glass doors so much that my bed was swimming in sunlight.
I flopped on to it, letting my head sink into a marshmallow-like stack of pillows.
Who needs the beach or pool when you can sunbathe from bed?
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Picking up the phone, I pressed the button for room service: “One glass of wine, please.”
Samantha would be proud.
GO: ABU DHABI
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Five nights’ B&B at the 5H Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island is from £899pp, including flights from Heathrow in June and 23kg of luggage per person.
Book by May 14 at ba.com/abudhabi.
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